well ,then its these circuit board inside the G25 wheel wont accept the new pots so.

I never ever had any kinda trouble on my selftuned pedals run via LeoBodnar BUO836 12bit joystick controller.
No matter if I run the ( same ) pots with selfbuild gearing or with none gearing at all.

of course geared pots serve more resolution ( as the travel range of the wiper increase ) = very little more smooth feeling e.c. inside GPL .

Means that these nice chip simply accept, recognized and count right , so the Volt output fits right again to any calibration menue of any PC racing sim.
( selfcalibration ? )


still dont understand why your new pots (340 degrees as you said ) wont run 70 degrees once they ruled by the gearing of G25 pedals

  do not understand why the new pots have a shorter travel way.  as long they connected to the gearing of the G25 pedals, travel way should be the same.

only thing I can imagine is : if the new pots dont have an mechanical start & end stop, but an 360° turn, then theer must be a dead zone between start&end position. Means if your shape of the shaft is accidently wrong positioned, wrong area of the pot travelway is at work. worst case would be if that dead zone is in the working range of the new pot then..

Hi Clive,

I am absolutely not an expert on electronics. In fact I have no knowledge at all on that really.

But I am pretty sure its not a matter of matching exactly amount of Volt like you say, as only the differences between start and stop are measured.

But I could be wrong on that and these G25 circuitboard indeed only works in that Volt areas you mentioned.

However here some thoughts/idears:

Looks like your new potentiometers do match 10k +-10% ,like the original G25 pedals pots have.
But if the originlas are linear or non-linear ( no idear what that really is ) could be important to know. To be on save side the new pots may should match these parameter as well.

Antoher thing important to know, is the working range of the potentiometers. Some do have a  dead zone on their travel range. Mostly those who come without an mechanical start and stop.
However , to check that I did used the tiny programm called DIView.
It makes the movement of pots visible and allows calibration/configuration.

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12



Dunno if that helps you, as your pedals run via G25 circuitboard, if I understood right.
At least your wheels axis movement should be displayed.
If your pedals arent recognized by diwiew then , even if you did move the pots axis by hand , to got free from the limitted travel way given by the gearing of the G25 pedal construction, I am clueless.
But if, then you are able to figure out the right position of  how each axis has to been mounted to the gearing of the pedals. ( working range of potentiometers ).

I never did run pedals via G25 circuitboard. ( never did have an G25 wheel ).
I always used LeoBodnar USB chip stuff to run my wheels and pedals.

Actually I run G25 pedals wired to that kinda chip.
It could be that these Bodnar chip is more forgiven than G25 circuitboard, if pots are on that dont match exactly the originals in all therms. I dont know....


So in case your new pots could not go to work via G25 wheel,  for sure its an good alternative to run for an LeoBodnar BUO836 12bit joystick controller.

Good luck and do not hesitate to ask more.


Btw. If I am lucky, today my new Clubsport V3 pedals do arrive. Wonder if I can get used to that hall sensor magnetic stuff so....

kindly regards
Nicky

  congratulations to podium ones & big hand to Iestyn Davies for win and outstanding fastes lap !!!

  , big fun all over. this time no trouble at all. was very pleased with my Porsche...smooth handling..well nothing magic considering how Iestyn Davies did race the 917 

   Martin , hope ya can get ya videocard back to run

  one freeze and one disco during Qually
in race PC just reboot thats really new,never ever happend before-

well,at least I did have some fun wth Cookie&G.T during prepractise,otherwise it wouldbe goodenoughh to start getting sick of ...

 
First off all sorry to all those my out off control car wents in the way !!!

I am absolutely clueless why my car sometimes suddenly act like its remote controlled.
It allways only happend if a car is close behind or any car is in front.
No fps trouble neither red bar did change:
 first accident – at the righthander after the long straigt, speed fine , gear right , of throttle as well off brake waiting to reach the turn in right direction...BUT car just went left 30° into wilderness, I even didnt steer then straight that moment ! Well droped me from 2nd to guess 7

2nd accident – guess Dean wonder what the heck Ickx is doing, mycar passed by on right side , but instead of following my steering straight way, car went left 15° cutting Deans way and hit into the wall

3rd & 4rd accident at hairpine car managed to climbed the wall leftside and stuck on it ..hey car was of about 45kmh slow , all fine no overhaeted tyres , no nervous counter steering , in fact perfect turn in with  lift & coast,  but like a ghost hand came down catch the car and threw it away.....


Cant tell how frustrating that shit is, even more cause I have no idear whats wrong .
PC hardware is perfect even so wheel and pedals, well must admit that these track clearly is programmed lousy ( unrealistic jumps & moves ) hardly could be cured by setup work. But offline never  ever happend to me what online in this race happend.

Saw other cars looked like having trouble with unrealistic lose rearjumps , why other seems to be stabel as a train... so whats the trick ?  I did used the ordinary nsarthe track version …

hope these nightmare could be overcame,  I was so looking forwards to a race after so long time and did spent quit a lot of time in setup work..and due to the circumstance LolaT260 is a fast car , I even could challange Cookie and Greg ..hooly shit  this  

  I will try to to be there.. as a heavy my choice will be Ferrari... pb so far 1-30-00, thats off about 6sec slower then wr,

  what a great fun.  so lucky that at long last I had the time to race and do not fall asleep before.

  btw. if some feel unconfortable on my status as a heavy, plz let me know and I will change. Its not my intention to spoil anyones fun...its just that preseason races shows me as extreme rusty..

___________

francesco,  sure not any programm starts in the back, like sofware update ?
another thing to work on to save avaiable RAM may to minimize the programms starts with windows. Sure Cookie can tell how to...

  nice track to race, even so landscape may not paragon of perfection.

however, unfortunately I am sure I will not successful in combat fatigue atm. so wont turn up for race

  as much I like to race Suzuka. But I dont have the time to fiddle out any useful setup , especially not in 66mod as I dont have any setups at all I can lay back on... so I wont take part.

  Bernie how know axes 0 = is for steering and axes 1 for throttle ?
sure you dont miss to click that golden arrow in GPL calibration menu , which let you see all axes GPL think are present ?
only moving ,for example the wheel , while watching all these GPL axes will show you ,which one GPL decided to be the wheels axis. ( slider is moving ).


but guess as long windows doesnt know that there is a Logitech controller around , for sure GPL wont know as well.
So best to follow Axel advises & questions !!!

sure you did use right Logitech software for WIN7 (64bit ? )
sorry if I double ask, its not my intention to make this all more complicated 

good luck

congrats to winner and all !!!!

after 22 laps my wrists felt like had to be replaced straight off....gee

big fun all over and since upgrading from old HD4870 videocard (which indeed was going to die ) to HD 7950 ( thx Axel ) GPL is runing perfectly again.
no stutters and most important no missmatches on steering and pedal inputs 

Only fps drops served to me was while beeing behind DLogan, who`s car to me was jumping quit well. So wasnt easy to judge giving tow alternating.
Sorry Dean, I was hoping we both could work back to the leading group, but maybe I even did not right technically....


btw. I did use Laechles update without any trouble...

  Fleurke you MClaren M7 was faster then a speeding duck, absolut amazing, how ya managed ?

cant help on u openGLv2 issue.
BUT to prepare GPL to desired resolution go like this:

1. open core.ini inside ya GPL folder,  edit height & width located in [ Raster V2 ] to your desired resolution. This will make GEM set the custom resolution under rider `Rasteriser `. note: then inside GEM under rider `Graphics ` field for resolution should be blank.

2.edit height & width inside each player.ini you have to your desired resolution.
 e.g.  for 69x mod
open players folder in your GPL directory
open your 69xmod player folder
open plax69 and edit height and width under [ Driving Resolution ] to your desired resolution.

3. start GPL via GEM
4. go to options , now your desired resolution should be listed inside the pop up menu ,select your custom resolution. click green button.


---------------

have you searched SRMZ for OpenGLv2 wont start ?

could join however via 60fpsV2mod. BUT got severe probs , like tearing & stutters on opticals side. More fatal on wheel input, most of the buttons lost there function ( newest join to key instaled ), plus brake and throttle did missmatch.
  unsure if these effects are related by the circumstances that may some join first session already under different 60fps version.
had to test that offline....

Under 60fpsV1 ( after server restart ) everything was much better, but stilll no smooth gameplay. compared to 36fps , car`s  behaviour was extreme irritable.
tends to drift sidewards. lost direction while braking and under throttle car was snappy, like there was allways an power boost the moment before upshift...

Thats why I quit. HAD NO DISCO.

 ;)as I mentioned before; gues most of (maybe all of ) the trouble I got , is coz of hardware issue on my side.
  will keep on to make these great 60fps do run on my side, as I know how smooth it could be. All my issues started after I changed my 19"CRT  to an 21"widecreen TFT

Cookie, thx for hint ! guess will asked you first for an advice which videocard would fit to my system, if the card I allready have ordered dont solve trouble.
( used HD4890 for 24€ )

note: as usual to me FPS counter isnt an indicator for trouble . got 41 fps at pit area and 59-60fps on  rest of track

well. I can join under 60FPSV2newmod without any prob. But will try 60fpsV1

But appart from that , guess my videocrad starts to die , all ok under 36fps, but stotters , tearing and total missmatches with throttle, brake and sterring inputs under 60fps. Hope the old new card I ordered via ebay will arrive on fryday.
so have fun all