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  • P7NAC Mont-Tremblant: November 29, 2012
November 29, 2012, 08:50:36 PM +0000 - Mont-Tremblant - UKPnG Version 2 Season 7 North American Cup
Driver
 Team
Nat. Make Model Class Qualifying Race
Tyres Pos Time/Gap Pos Time/Gap Laps Stops Best Retirement
reason
Ballast
lelero
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
Ford Falcon (#68090) P&G Group 5 1 1:54.347
83.873mph
1 46:57.461
81.696mph
24 1:55.845
82.788mph
Dunlop  
Bonni Massimo
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
Ford Falcon (#68090) P&G Group 5 3 +1.828
82.553mph
2 +42.923
80.470mph
24 1:57.498
81.624mph
Dunlop  
Geoffers
 Kerb Crawlers
Ford Falcon (#68043) P&G Group 5 4 +2.440
82.121mph
3 +49.916
80.274mph
24 1:57.482
81.635mph
Dunlop  
Clive Loynes
 Soggy Bottom Racers Club
Ford Falcon (#68104) P&G Group 5 5 +3.359
81.479mph
4 +1:28.090
79.219mph
24 1:59.269
80.412mph
Dunlop  
goldtop
 Kerb Crawlers
Ford Falcon (#68043) P&G Group 5 6 +4.176
80.918mph
5 +1:37.301
78.969mph
24 1:59.214
80.449mph
Dunlop  
Hotkeys
 Soggy Bottom Racers Club
Ford Falcon (#68090) P&G Group 5 6 +2:07.076
78.170mph
24 1:59.814
80.046mph
Dunlop  
simon loynes
 Soggy Bottom Racers Club
Ford Mustang Gr5 (#6601) P&G Group 5 8 +6.192
79.564mph
7 +1L
78.046mph
23 2:00.510
79.584mph
Dunlop  
Mark J
 Legends Racing
Ford Falcon (#68090) P&G Group 5 7 +5.040
80.332mph
8 +4.827
77.913mph
23 2:00.491
79.596mph
Dunlop  
phspok
 Team Pseudo Racing
Ford Mustang Gr5 (#68091) P&G Group 5 9 +7.486
78.719mph
9 +47.018
76.769mph
23 2:02.208
78.478mph
Dunlop  
McLowry
 Soggy Bottom Racers Club
Ford Falcon (#68095) P&G Group 5 10 +9.992
77.133mph
10 +1:44.186
75.271mph
23 2:02.930
78.017mph
Dunlop  
Wiltshire Tony
 Toyland Racing
Ford Mustang Gr5 (#68091) P&G Group 5 12 +11.760
76.051mph
11 +3L
70.895mph
21 2:07.477
75.234mph
Dunlop  
Alex vV
 Gentlemen Drivers Club
Ford Mustang Gr5 (#68091) P&G Group 5 11 +10.737
76.673mph
12 +36.570
69.994mph
21 2:04.960
76.750mph
Dunlop  
Manteos
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
Ford Falcon (#68090) P&G Group 5 2 +1.564
82.741mph
13 +10L 14 1:57.367
81.715mph
suspension
Dunlop  
SimRacing.org.uk Lap Records
GTR2
P&G Group 5
1:54.347
83.873mph
lelero
Qualifying
Ford FalconNovember 29, 2012, 08:50:36 PM +0000
P7NAC
GTR2
P&G Group 5
1:55.845
82.788mph
lelero
Race
Ford FalconNovember 29, 2012, 08:50:36 PM +0000
P7NAC
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Author Topic: UKPnG Season 7 North American Cup - Mont-Tremblant - Nov 29  (Read 10661 times)
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Clive Loynes
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« Reply #30 on: November 30, 2012, 08:03:48 AM +0000 »

I managed to show a clean pair of heels to Tudor in qually but on race rubber it was a different matter.

The Italian contingent vanished into the distance, taking Geoffers with them, and at first I thought that I had the measure of Tudor.  But I was wrong.

He started to gain on me after a few laps and was with me “on and off” for the rest of the race.  We had a good race and thankfully he dropped it a couple of times, which gave me some breathing space.

Grats to the podium.

Think we need a separate car list for Italians!
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« Reply #31 on: November 30, 2012, 08:59:24 AM +0000 »

Quite happy that I was at least somewhere near the Italian aliens in qually, although Daniele was in a different class.

Got a good start & went for a gap between Manteos & Massimo but it closed up & I had to drop into 4th place. I expected them to pull away (Daniele did) but as it turned out I was able to stay with M & M without too much problem. Unfortunately about the 9th lap I missed my brake point at T2 & spun, lost about 7-8s but didn't damage the car. A few laps later Manteos spun coming out of the final turn & I sailed by into 3rd place. Tried hard but could only knock a tenth or two off the gap to Massimo so finished a happy 3rd.  Cool

Don't know what tyres everyone else used, but I threw caution to the wind & used the softer ones, they seemed to last quite well even though wear was up over 40 on the fronts at the end!  Shocked

Congrats to Daniele & Massimo.  clap clap
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« Reply #32 on: November 30, 2012, 11:09:18 AM +0000 »

Ah, so the softs did last? Bugger I changed to the meds at last moment after seeing the wear on my soft fronts after only 4 laps of qually. As a result I never once broke into the 59's during the race despite doing it regularly in practise. Even with meds I finished with 24 front wear.
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« Reply #33 on: November 30, 2012, 11:40:27 AM +0000 »

It's just frustrating to drive with a Thrustmaster after 1 year of G25... I won't race anymore til I buy a new wheel.

Hope to see you soon. Smiley

That will be hard going Manteos.  What has happened to your G25?  Can it not be mended?
It was a second hand G25 from my VDA mate Ayrton, and after 4 years and a half, it naturally died. The inside plastic body was cracked, and the damned little plastic wheel that the sensor needs to calibrate the wheel was broken in 3 pieces. I tried in every way to disassemble and reassemble it, but it didn't do anything.

The Thrumaster f430 is not fun at all, and after 2 years all the buttons are gone. Paddles are gone, and I had only 2 working buttons for shift up/down, placed both on the left side of the wheel. I was becoming crazy and justa a little nervous.

About the race, I can only say grats to Geoffers for the good pace showed during the race doing an hazard with the tyres Wink Daniele and Massimo, like me, were on the harder Dunlop 184, a good compromize between performance and resistance here. Just think that with the 270° wheel the tyre wear increases rapidly compared to a 700° rotation, and I was near 2 of tyre wear every lap on my xd.... so I had no other chances. Massimo is more "dirty" than me when driving, and this car needs to be driven very clean to get the best performance on it, and daniele, that is one of the fastest driver with P&G was really impressive in his pace Shocked Good Job for the VDA guys anyway.
I really hope that Santa will bring me a new wheel.... I just miss the racing mood of P&G.... What a pity, 3 years for the release, and a broken wheel after 1 month by the release... Sad

Cu Smiley
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« Reply #34 on: November 30, 2012, 01:54:50 PM +0000 »

A nice race with Clive, although I never really managed to get myself into a position where I could make a clean move. Tried to sell the dummy a couple of times in the hope of distracting him, but he was far too experienced for that  Wink

Rubber held up ok, I was on the harder dunflops and had around 20 wear by race end.

Sorry to hear your troubles Manteos. I had a G27 go bad and bought a used DFGT to last me until I decided on a replacement.....I'm still using it and pretty happy tbh Smiley The pedals are carp, but I use CSPs anyway.

Well done those fast Italians and to Geoffers for excellent pace too.
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« Reply #35 on: November 30, 2012, 03:19:33 PM +0000 »

I really don’t get this 700 degree wheel rotation thing!

I currently use 300 degrees on my G25 and if I use anything other than maximum “LOCK” in the car setup I just motor straight off the circuit on the outside of the first corner.

When people send me setups with 12 degrees "LOCK", I smash straight into the pit wall trying to get out of the garage!
Mike (McLowry) tried to explain it to me recently but whilst it almost made sense, the testing still didn’t get me around a lap!

If using 700 degrees of rotation would have allowed me to use one set of 970s for the race then I want some.  Can someone please explain it to me.

PS @ Manteos Do you have any photos of the broken bit?  I once mended the analogue padle quadrant on a Thrustmaster.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 06:45:57 PM +0000 by Clive Loynes » Logged

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« Reply #36 on: November 30, 2012, 07:11:14 PM +0000 »

I really don’t get this 700 degree wheel rotation thing!

I currently use 300 degrees on my G25 and if I use anything other than maximum “LOCK” in the car setup I just motor straight off the circuit on the outside of the first corner.

When people send me setups with 12 degrees "LOCK", I smash straight into the pit wall trying to get out of the garage!
Mike (McLowry) tried to explain it to me recently but whilst it almost made sense, the testing still didn’t get me around a lap!

If using 700 degrees of rotation would have allowed me to use one set of 970s for the race then I want some.  Can someone please explain it to me.


I will try to be understandable in my explanation Clive.

First of all P&G 3 is meant to be used with a 900° rotation of the wheel with the max steer lock ratio you can select in the setup menu (that depends by the car you choose). It's not an axiom, but it will makes the driving experience much more immersive and realistic. After all these cars are not GT, that use 400/450° of wheel rotation in real GT modern races.
However, using 900° and max steer lock ratio in game, you will need to cross your arms to deal with a hairpin bend at very low speeds. To make an example, you will have to turn almost all the wheel up to the 900° to manage to "close" a corner like the Loews bend at Montecarlo without crashing on the guard rail.

"When people send me setups with 12 degrees "LOCK", I smash straight into the pit wall trying to get out of the garage!"
This is true when you're talking about the pit garage exit. I lowered the steer lock ratio even to 11.0 before yesterday's race, and I had to leave the garage making some drift to avoid the wall, but this happens only at really low speeds, like that you have when you're leaving the garage.

This is the issue Clive. Less is the rotation you use on your wheel, and more is the precision required in your driving. If you add to a low rotation of the wheel (like 300°) a higher steer lock in game, you will need to be even more accurate (or precise... you choose) when you turn your wheel to do a corner. It will be difficult to explain it for me in english, but I'll try anyway Wink
In your case, with only 300° of rotation, I would have chose a steer lock in game in a range between 10. - 13.0 not more. I'll try to explain why.
I don't know which was your steer lock for the race yesterday, but I assume you were on a higher value than 14. This fact means that you were absolutely able to exit from the garage without issue, but when you were driving your tank on the track, you should have experienced a lot of understeer in cornering, and a lot of overseteering when you were pushing on the throttle coming out by a corner with your wheel turned. These things makes the driving more difficult for a series of reason:
- ULTRA SENSIBLE wheel. You're practically driving a Formula 1 car.
- No feeling of tyre behaviour with sudden understeer/oversteer reaction of your car
- You will have to use only a very little part of the entire 300°, cause if your arms turn too much degrees of the wheel when you turn into a corner, you will experience understeer, that becomes oversteer when you're coming out of a corner pushing on the throttle.

That will be the most difficult to explain... I have to use a bit of math, but I'll try.
I would like to know which steer lock you were using yesterday, but for the moment I will make just an example, and I will assume you were using 16. We need a comparison between G25 and Thrumaster, by a simple mathematical proportion. We need to find the right steer lock in game, that is our unknown quantity (X).
These are the data at our disposal: Max thrustmaster rotation degree (270) - Max G25 rotation degree (900) - Max steer lock of the car (for the Falcon Sprint is 34.5) - Steer lock used in setup (X) ?
Translated in numbers:
270 : 900 = X : 34.5 => (270 x 34.5)/900 = 10.35
Premise that GTR does not work exactly in this way, cause the game does not follow a linear progression, this is surely a good approximation of the range value you shoud use to have the best gettable experience in your driving. In this case, with my Thrustmaster, I shoud have used a steer lock inside this range (9 to 12). I opted for 11 just cause I didn't want to be bothered to do a manouvre using the reverse gear to leave my garage.

In your case the proportion changes in this way:
300 : 900 = X : 34.5 => 11.5
So your "right" steer lock value should have been in this range (10 to 13) approximately to exploit at best your G25.

Now, if you selected a value over the 13, your car should have been ultra responsive, and you would have experience some of the issues I explained before.

Comparing the results under the hypotesys you selected a value of 16 for the steer lock, we obtain this:
My case:
270 : 900 = 11 : 34.5 => 0,94 circa

Your case
300 : 900 = 16 : 34.5 => 1.40 circa

If you want to give a meaning to the 2 values, they show how much is the distance by the best gettable precision obtainable by your wheel. The perfect value should be 1 of course.
In few words, if you compare 0.94 with 1.40 it means that you had almost 50% less of degrees at your disposal to be more precise in your driving. I will do another example, than finally I should have finished  Grin

If the game "believes" that you have to turn your wheel of about 120° to do a corner, you will have a range near that value in which the game will "save" you from understeer/oversteer if you turn it a little more or a little less degrees. If we set that range in a + 5°/-5°, you will not have to do any correction on your wheel to do that corner if you are in this range. So, if you turn the wheel between 115° and 125°, your car will not have any bad reaction. In my case, that range will enlarge of about the 50% more than yours, so the game will consider correct if I turn my wheel in a range of about 112.5° and 127.5°.
That means that you have less margin of error compared to me, and your drive needs to be extremely precise, or you will be always fighting with understeer/oveersteer, that means more corrections on your wheel and more countersteer all over the places.
The more degrees you will use on your profiler (combined with the right value of the steer lock), less will be the precision you will need to drive, and you'll have a bigger margin of error.

Now, if you want to follow my suggestion, try to familiarize with a higher wheel rotation. I always used 708° with my G25 since I started to test the P&G 3, and usually the right steer lock ratio combined with 708° is between 25 to 28, even if it depends by the car, and by the max steer lock value. That will help you to have a better tyre wear, a better car control, and probably better performance. I know for my past experience, that it won't be easy to change your mind about this, cause I spent almost a month to re-learn to drive when I passed from a 270° wheel to a 900°, and now I'm finding really frustrating to re-learn to drive with 270°, so I won't race anymore with this toy for kids. When you get used to do it, I'm sure your fun will increase rapidly.

It has been a difficult thing to explain, and I hope to have been enough clear guys. I have a bad headache at the moment  Grin Grin
 
Cu Smiley
« Last Edit: December 01, 2012, 02:59:37 PM +0000 by Manteos » Logged



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« Reply #37 on: November 30, 2012, 07:34:56 PM +0000 »

Thanks Manteos.

I will have the headache by the time I have understood it.

My "LOCK" is always Max.  34.5 in this case.   Grin

I still do not understand what this "LOCK" figure is but I will experiment further.

I have already adopted your 700 degree rotation, but still with 34.5 LOCK, and had a try at St Jovite.  I found that I had to soften the front springs and damping to be able to turn into the corners.

I have no picture in my head for what LOCK can be if reducing it is going to help the car to turn.

Jury is still out.
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« Reply #38 on: November 30, 2012, 07:47:40 PM +0000 »

Thanks Manteos.

I will have the headache by the time I have understood it.
Grin

My "LOCK" is always Max.  34.5 in this case.   Grin
Practically with 300° and 34.5 of steer lock, you were driving a go kart instead of a big V8  Grin


I have already adopted your 700 degree rotation, but still with 34.5 LOCK, and had a try at St Jovite.  I found that I had to soften the front springs and damping to be able to turn into the corners.

I have no picture in my head for what LOCK can be if reducing it is going to help the car to turn.


Now comes the hard part Clive. You will have to get used with the new settings. Consider that if you passed from a configuration with 300° and 34.5 steer lock, to a 700° and a 34.5 steer lock, you will need necessarily to turn your wheel a lot more than you did in advance. Your feelings about the physic of the car will change, but you should be able to feel the behaviour of your car much more better.
Just don't give up after a few attempts, caus as I said, now comes the difficult, and it will take some practice to get used to the new settings Wink

Never give up mate! Smiley
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« Reply #39 on: November 30, 2012, 11:08:28 PM +0000 »


Unofficial LapChart

Apologies for the erratic start. Had to park the car pronto because real life intervened.
Hope I didn't cause any mishaps.
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« Reply #40 on: December 01, 2012, 09:32:18 AM +0000 »

Thanks Alex.

Have moved my attention on to Albert Park in the Capri and 700 / 28 is providing something driveable but with the default setup I have only managed 2:12.

That means that Tudor, who I raced with here in St Jovite, is now 4 seconds up the road!     Embarrassed
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« Reply #41 on: December 01, 2012, 09:33:47 AM +0000 »

Connected OK to practice server all working, I remember Jovite from my GPL days  Grin

Just need to sort out the steering with my g27

Didn't spot you on the grid Burt? 
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« Reply #42 on: December 01, 2012, 12:32:29 PM +0000 »

why 700 deg and not 900? Ive been using 900 for a few years now. It feels much more natural with the countersteering and steering input etc in P&G  Smiley
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« Reply #43 on: December 01, 2012, 12:59:14 PM +0000 »

I took the Mustang which seems to be a poor choice, could have and should have taken the Flacon, ah well

MY G25 and G27 both stop turning the car's steering at the point where the wheel becomes more resistive
there is a definate step from easy to turn to hard to turn, when it gets there turning it more does nothing
in game, the car is at full lock. so I run 15 deg or so in the settings. One of the wheels in either GTL or PG
can;t remember which likes 30 deg or so, but still doesn't seem to to do anything if I turn the wheel
past the "step"
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« Reply #44 on: December 01, 2012, 02:58:25 PM +0000 »

why 700 deg and not 900? Ive been using 900 for a few years now. It feels much more natural with the countersteering and steering input etc in P&G  Smiley
I told you in advance that I don't use the Max Steer Lock in game, but I would have used a value in a range between 25 to 28 with 708

Retsarting from math proportion:
708 : 900 = X : 34.5 => X = 27.14. So I was correct when I told you that I would have used a value in that range (25 - 28)

I noticed that I did a mistake when I told you in my previous post that the "The perfect value should be 0 of course.". The perfect value should be 1 OF COURSE Grin, if we want to base this issue on a linear proportion.

Now, assuming I would have choose 27.0 of steer lock in game, we obtain
708 : 900 = 27 : 34.5 => 1, 005 That is approximable to 1.

Is for that reason that I don't use all the 900 °. I have to assume that MJ used 900° and 34.5 Steer Lock in game, or he would have expereinced a lot of understeer when turning the wheel. I did try to drive with 900° in the first period, but I had to turn my wheel more than I would have expected to let the car turning in. Evenmore, as I said before, you will never need to use all the 900° rotation to do a corner, except for the Loews or something similar. Practically Mark, we are in the same situation, but you have to turn your wheel very slightly more than me to do a corner, cause as I said in my previous post, GTR2 does not respect the linear proportion of my example, but it is surely a really good approximation to understand the importance of the rotation degrees/steer lock combo. Evenmore, there are some cars in P&G that are caracterized by a lower value of Max Steer Lock (The Porsche 2.8 and 3.0 if I'm not worng have that value setted on 23, and some other cars too). With that cars, I experienced even more understeer that in the case of cars with an higher value of Max Steer Lock.

These 2 values (rotation degrees in G25 profiler and Steer Lock in game) work in pairs, and once you choose the rotation degrees that you prefere in a range between 650° - 900°, you have just to adjust the steer lock in game. After a bit of practice, you will find this value without the calculator, but only judging by your sensibility of driving. Is for this reason that I'm talking about a range, cause there aren't magic numbers that will auto-pilot your car, but that is the range you should use to have the better response by your wheel, needing less precision on your driving.

I don't know if I understood what Matt said, but before I would need to know which rotation degrees you used on your G25 profiler combined with your 15 deg of steer lock.
I can just say, if i understood a bit, that it's normal what you say. In a real car, if you are too fast when approaching a corner, you can follow to turn your wheel as long as you want in the direction of the corner to get the car turn in, but the response of the car would not be to close the line at the apex. You would just experience understeer, and your car would go wider and wider when you pass the "step" of max resistance of your tyres (that you feel handling your wheel which will become "lighter"), and your car will start to slide outside from the ideal line. However, I need an "Italian user friendly" explanation Matt, cause I really doubt I get what you were saying  Grin. However If I may venture an explanation, I would think that you used too much steer lock, comparing it to the rotation degrees you had set on the profiler. I will wait your data anyway Wink.

Don't take my explanation as the Bible of P&G  Grin, but I just invite you to try to apply these simple proportions and find the right steer lock range value to use in every car. Once you're in the range, you will be able to exploit your 900° wheel at the best. The champion of ROTW P&G World Tour champ, use to drive with a bit higher rotation degrees than me in the profiler, but never over the 800°. It's a matter of turning the wheel in a more natural way, and as MJ said, "It feels much more natural with the countersteering and steering input etc in P&G". AMEN Grin



« Last Edit: December 01, 2012, 03:02:01 PM +0000 by Manteos » Logged



"The second principle: Take every gain without showing remorse about missed profits, because an eel may escape sooner than you think."
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