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  • S26Am Keimola: February 04, 2014
February 04, 2014, 09:36:33 PM +0000 - Keimola - UKGPL Season 26 (2014) Amateurs Trophy
Driver
 Team
Nat. Make Model Class Qualifying Race
Tyres Pos Time/Gap Pos Time/Gap Laps Stops Best Retirement
reason
Ballast
dave curtis
 Black Night Racing
Lotus 33 (Climax 1965) F1 1965 5 +0.631
89.823mph
1 40:04.297
89.045mph
29 1:21.353
90.746mph
Dunlop  
Billy Nobrakes
 Black Night Racing
Brabham BT11 (Climax) F1 1965 2 +0.088
90.420mph
2 +1.820
88.978mph
29 1:21.972
90.060mph
Goodyear  
roguk
 Clark-Hill Racing
Ferrari 512 F1 1965 3 +0.376
90.102mph
3 +20.953
88.276mph
29 1:21.942
90.093mph
Dunlop  
BadBlood
 Blue Moose Racing
Honda RA272 F1 1965 4 +0.464
90.006mph
4 (+3) +22.730
88.211mph
29 1:21.545
90.532mph
Goodyear  
Johnny.P
 Blue Moose Racing
Cooper T77 (Climax) F1 1965 1 1:21.558
90.518mph
5 +35.507
87.749mph
29 1:21.414
90.678mph
Dunlop  
Walter Conn
 WSL Racing Team
Ferrari 512 F1 1965 6 +0.729
89.716mph
6 +1:03.567
86.751mph
29 1:20.648
91.539mph
Dunlop  
2 UKGPL_T7
 
Honda RA272 F1 1965 7 7 DNS ---
---
Goodyear  

Moderator's Report

One incident in the first lap and nothing reported


Server replay time: 0h01m34s

Paul follows Rog into VW-Mutka and messes his braking or wants to make a "Very Ambitious Overtake".
Paul bumps into Rog...
Result is a spinning Rog who was suddenly at the tail of a small grid.
The rules say:
The overtaking driver had not achieved any degree of overlap at turn-in. The overtaking driver WOULD have made the corner. Penalty for overtaking driver.

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Author Topic: UKGPL Season 26 (2014) Amateurs Trophy - Keimola - Feb 4  (Read 5338 times)
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Robert Fleurke
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« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2014, 05:26:00 PM +0000 »

...six times at turn 1 on the brakes. I'm trying to stick with the wheel and peddles this season instead of my trusty pad but I am usless when heavy braking is needed I have feet of clay...

Are you left or right foot braking? Either way, deep/late braking is the last place to look for laptime. Try braking just a little earlier than you think you have to, and more gently, concentrating on getting the car set for the corner. Going into a corner all panicked and unbalanced (NOT claiming here that I don't still do the same thing  Tongue ) just costs you time as you try to gather it back up, hit the apex (or worse, miss it), and just then start to get drive out of the corner to the next one.

In other words, if you're not hitting your apexes consistently every lap, never mind about the braking for now.

If I understand well Johnny went from digital to analog input. Then it's  a matter of getting used to it. You only have to touch the brake gently in order to slow the car down. It should give you more control and better results in the long term. Also try to go to full lineair steering input as soon as possible. It will give you more precise control in the end. However guys like Raoni Frizzo are as fast digitally as guys with wheels and pedals, how he does it is a mystery to me.

Also you might put a spring under your braking pedal to give it more resistance to your clay foot. Good luck!
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dave curtis
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« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2014, 06:21:50 PM +0000 »

Also you might put a spring under your braking pedal to give it more resistance to your clay foot. Good luck!

I've heard this is the only good use for a squash ball  Smiley
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roguk
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« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2014, 07:21:35 PM +0000 »

Thanks Robert for reply, ive been doing almost the reverse of this(first tweak springs, then arb's and after that maybe tires) prob why i dont have much success with setting up car.

If i alter wheel rate (springs)will i not upset the balance of car, do you mean alter left/right wheel rates at front?
« Last Edit: February 06, 2014, 08:26:33 PM +0000 by roguk » Logged
Johnny.P
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« Reply #18 on: February 06, 2014, 08:05:37 PM +0000 »

Thanks Robert
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roguk
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« Reply #19 on: February 06, 2014, 10:37:59 PM +0000 »

Hi Robert  your info on springs is correct,  altered springs by just 5lbs and it made a tremendous difference to front tire temps without altering arbs and tire pressures Thanks

looks like i will never stop learning
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Robert Fleurke
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« Reply #20 on: February 06, 2014, 11:36:25 PM +0000 »

Nice Smiley If you have found the springs you like, you keep them constant and can further build on that. You will find out you will often have/like the same ratio's at different tracks for the same chassis. Like a soft 70/100 to a stiffer 84/120 at a bumpier/rollercoaster track, same ratio.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2014, 11:46:54 PM +0000 by Robert Fleurke » Logged

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BadBlood
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« Reply #21 on: February 07, 2014, 12:51:22 PM +0000 »

So if you are melting the tyres on one side only (in my case left front) you would simply change the spring on that wheel only?

and does it need to be softer or harder (am I 'skidding' or pushing the wheel into the ground)?

I normally do this by playing around - first down and then up but this surprised me because in practice doing around ten laps at a time there were no issues. It was only in the race when my driving was somewhat ragged...
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Walter Conn
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« Reply #22 on: February 07, 2014, 12:58:29 PM +0000 »

Here is the set-up that I used.

https://www.mediafire.com/?21flks8nlbict6f

The rear tires tend to heat up more than the front with this set-up. I probably needed a little more understeer to keep it pointed in the correct direction (of course, it would have helped if I wasn't "over-driving" the car too).  
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 01:01:58 PM +0000 by Walter Conn » Logged

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Robert Fleurke
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« Reply #23 on: February 07, 2014, 02:23:59 PM +0000 »

So if you are melting the tyres on one side only (in my case left front) you would simply change the spring on that wheel only?

and does it need to be softer or harder (am I 'skidding' or pushing the wheel into the ground)?

I normally do this by playing around - first down and then up but this surprised me because in practice doing around ten laps at a time there were no issues. It was only in the race when my driving was somewhat ragged...

I always use symmetrical spring settings left/right. On most clockwise circuits, you will find your left tires hotter than the right tires, because they are worked way more. Only at ovals or a circuits that have predominantly the same turns you use asymmetrical springs. Want as much symmetry in the car for balance, apart from camber/starting pressures on the average circuit.

In your case I would still put some ratio to the rear, i.e.stiffer rear springs, or softer front springs if you can get away with it (not bottoming out). That would be the first adjustment I would make. Remember by your driving you can put more temps in the tires as well, prolly you pushed more in race than practise. Good luck.

Here is the set-up that I used.

https://www.mediafire.com/?21flks8nlbict6f

The rear tires tend to heat up more than the front with this set-up. I probably needed a little more understeer to keep it pointed in the correct direction (of course, it would have helped if I wasn't "over-driving" the car too).  

Yes, Axel uses proportional springs for Ferrari 65, even more to the rear, and so the temp balance will be to the rears. If the temps get too high in the rear too fast, you can correct this by entering turns harder (loading LF or RF more depending on turn/track), or set less rear ratio (softer rear springs or stiffer front springs).

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Boggy
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« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2014, 08:08:43 PM +0000 »

Hi Robert
Thanks for your input on setups for us novices. It is great for someone with your experience to give us learners some great advice.

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« Reply #25 on: February 14, 2014, 03:10:38 PM +0000 »

Mod published  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #26 on: February 14, 2014, 11:43:32 PM +0000 »

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