UKGTR Skin Pack Refresh Test Race - Mar 30

[Simon Gymer]

Skins looked great - and so do the screens Shark. Graphics look awesome compared to my rig, what resolution you running?

1280x1024. Full graphics options on and 4xAntiAliasing.

Does your pedal rock from side to side like mine did?
If so then its easily fixed in 20mins -
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e1.html
Mine are working better than when new now, although I dont know how long it wil last obviously.

Yes the pedals are a bit side to side but not much. I did previously have the spiking issue on the accelerator pedal which I fixed by taking them apart, re-greasing and putting them back in again.

The problem I find with taking the pedals apart is they are bitch to put back together without things falling out of place whilst you put the 2 main bits of outercasing plastic back.

After a reboot last night it was back to normal, but as has been shown before the side to side crap in these pedals screws it up.

What sort of tape do you stick underneath the spring round the shaft? Just ordinary paper masking tape?

I also get horrible knocking sounds from my wheel nowadays, so may have to open the wheel up too to regrease that. Don't really want to open it up for fear of making it worse. Especially don't want to have a non-working wheel/pedals come Sundays league race.

[mo]

The problem I find with taking the pedals apart is they are bitch to put back together without things falling out of place whilst you put the 2 main bits of outercasing plastic back.

Maybe you dismantled more than I did - I only took off the base and its possible to add the tape to the shaft without removing the pedals or springs (there's only one spring on the accelerator, which is why it suffers more failure than the brake which has 2 springs)

What sort of tape do you stick underneath the spring round the shaft? Just ordinary paper masking tape?

I also get horrible knocking sounds from my wheel nowadays, so may have to open the wheel up too to regrease that. Don't really want to open it up for fear of making it worse. Especially don't want to have a non-working wheel/pedals come Sundays league race.

I wouldn't use masking or paper tape because this will prolly break up or wear away. The link I posted above suggests using plastic electrical insulating tape which would be better.
I didn't chance this though, and I used a strip of flexi plastic about the thickness of a cornflakes pack. This should last for ever and the pedals really do feel WAY better than when I bought them!

The above link also has fixes for steering knock and shaft sloppiness ( I know it sounds rude but you know what I mean )

edit to say that you dont put the plastic/tape under the spring on the casing, but actually wrap it around the end of the pedal shaft where it sits into its housing. I was amazed at how much play there was in this housing after only 3 months - rubbish design.

[Rich_A]

These logitech peddles aren't worth the hassle. I glued pots into pedals and also into where they sit. They don't budge at all.. I used glue where you mix hardener and adhesive together. Glued those parts together [four in all], left it to dry over night with the lid still off. Been working fine for months but still the pots are terrible, no precision in DX and horrible deadzones. I allow myself two seconds at least cause of this, I got this ultra high precsion car and it's getting terrible input from me - so I tend to do very little pedal work cause it's so easy to upset the car. If I had good peddles i'd be working the pedals and therefore the wheel alot more. Cause FFB in wheel is directly connected to G force, more precise peddles mean more precise control of G and so FFB in wheel gives more precise feedback - it's completely all inter related.

You can bet that these cars are 99% efficient brakes and throttle, i.e when driver is at 68% travel on pedal the car gives 68% brake or throttle. These logitech pedals so bad that even 10% movement might not even register in DX and when finally it does register it jumps instantly to it!! I recommend saving for standalone set..

Couldn't make test race, was working but I checked with 56 cars at Spa both hi-rez and lo-rez, all seemed in order - now time to enjoy.

[Simon Gymer]

Thanks Mo.

Are your pedals different design to mine or something cause when i take the base off the pedals fall through the holes (up to the top of the pedal as there is nothing stopping them going down. (Turn them upside down on. Undo the screws. Take off base. Pedals no longer have base to stop them coming through, so they fall through).

I'll see what I can manage. Might glue the pots in place like Rich.

Yeah saw the knocking steering wheel thing on that website.

As for saving for a new set of real pedals. Eeek. I can get away with a lot with my Mrs, but not sure spending hundreds of pounds? on a nice set of pedals will sit too right with her.  Are there any decent ones for a lowish price? What is a decent set of pedals?

Are the DFP pedals the exact same ones as the Momo Racing or have they changed any of the design on the pedals, like the housing?

[mo]

Thanks Mo.

Are your pedals different design to mine or something cause when i take the base off the pedals fall through the holes (up to the top of the pedal as there is nothing stopping them going down. (Turn them upside down on. Undo the screws. Take off base. Pedals no longer have base to stop them coming through, so they fall through).

Yes that's the same as mine Shark, but if you have the pedal box upside down when working on it, and support it by putting something between the pedals they dont get pushed through. all I needed to do then was lift the accelerator pedal slightly to allow me to wrap the plastic around the shaft end where it sits in the housing.


One thing to note about glueing the pots tho....... these are supposed to be loosely mounted to stop them getting strained which can seriously affect the ability to calibrate them later.
If you glue the pots and the pedal developes any sideways movement due to wear, then the pots are put under enormous strain because the pedal shaft (with the force of your right foot behind it) can bend the little axle that goes into the pot or even deform the rotation plane inside the pot.
Once this happens the pots are knackered, just like a crackly volume switch on a cheap radio. This causes spikes and deadzones.

I've read mixed reviews about glueing them in, but when I looked into mine I decided against it mainly becasue all the slop was at the other end of the pedal shaft, and not the end that has the pot attached.

[popabawa]

Get some Speed 7's Shark, you know it makes sense 

As they sit under the PC desk Mrs Pops has never noticed mine, and I never get away with ANYTHING!

[Don]

Please don't buy any decent pedals, you guys are fast enough as it is
I invested around Christmas time in a set of Speed 7's and can say that even though they cost a bomb they have been worth every penny I paid for them. I just have to calculate how much racing I do with them to justify buying them.
Just ask SBG, POPs and Jams about them
Those Logitech pedals really let themselves down!

[Rich_A]

Act Labs releasing new pedals very soon, I make some noise when they're available..

They're supposed to be very good mid price range pedals, good pots - few issues with springs on previous version but hopefully fixed in new ones.

I manged to fry a pot by glueing it into housing. Put too much round the pot and think the fumes maybe fried it. The pots do move in the housing but they're not so bad without glue.. the 80% comes from occasional extra pot travel then it can never reach that again, glueing all parts makes it impossible for this to happen.

Only got to try and not get glue on moving parts of POT and don't suffocate it with glue trying to glue it to housing, only needs it on cantact areas. If you study how POT works, it's quite obvious which parts not to get glue on. A big blob underneath pot will work, when it's squished it will spread out to sides and stick it good. RevB POTs are bit more tricky to glue cause they only rely on small hooks to prevent movement!! And tbh RevB POTs aren't any better than RevA except maybe more robust i.e less prone to spikes but precision wise they are exact same cause circuitry inside wheel means 10k POTs have to be used - 10k is poor quality, why they didn't use 120k like Thrustmaster I don't know!

[ginsters sponsored]

Its not easy to smuggle the speed 7's past beady eyes  , they look expensive even to the untrained eye. But I've never regretted buying mine, they just make a great experience even better and hopefully they might slow Shark down for a day or two.

[Simon Gymer]

Did you guys get the 2 or 3 pedal version?

Anyone fork out for the wheel too?

Are they really really sturdy then?

[ginsters sponsored]

Buy the two pedal, see how you get on, and if you need 3rd pedal it comes in a kit for £40. They are just quality and feel like they will last forever. You might just stare at them for a while before using them (I need to get out more  )

Trouble is my momo feels more and more clunky in comparison and their wheel costs £800.

[Don]

Got myself the 3 pedal and tuning kit, great bit of kit.

[Simon Gymer]

Yes just seen the wheel cost - £800!!!!! Definately a no no on that one.

£250 for pedals is a bit high too tbh, when a DFP costs £80. I could buy and break 3 DFPs before reaching the costs of the Speed7 pedals. I will try and get my Momo pedals working first! If I still having trouble then I will look at it again, but £250 is a lot.

[popabawa]

I've got the 3 pedal set-up, in for a penny and all that.

Never really used the clutch 'in anger' though, too much for my little brain to cope with