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  • E7DTM92 Zhuhai: March 26, 2020
March 26, 2020, 08:53:42 PM +0000 - Zhuhai - RRE Season 7 (2020) DTM & TC'92 Cup
Driver
 Team
Nat. Make Model Class Qualifying Race
Tyres Pos Time/Gap Pos Time/Gap Laps Stops Best Retirement
reason
Ballast
Gavino Pintus
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
Ford Mustang DTM DTM92 1 1:39.987
---
1 30:13.443
---
18 0 1:39.816
---
Goodyear  
frex
 Kerb Crawlers
Ford Mustang DTM DTM92 2 +0.130
---
2 +1.695
---
18 0 1:40.009
---
Goodyear  
Bonni Massimo
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
Opel Omega 3000 Evo500 DTM92 3 +0.716
---
3 +31.624
---
18 0 1:41.076
---
Pirelli  
Geoffers
 Kerb Crawlers
Mercedes 190 Evo2 DTM92 4 +0.884
---
4 +55.751
---
18 0 1:41.121
---
Bridgestone  
phspok
 Team Pseudo Racing
BMW M3 Sport Evolution DTM92 8 +4.037
---
5 +1:29.472
---
18 0 1:42.221
---
Yokohama  
Manteos
 Virtual Drivers Alliance
BMW M3 Sport Evolution DTM92 6 +2.623
---
6 +1:29.541
---
18 0 1:41.285
---
Yokohama  
BillThomas
 Kerb Crawlers
Mercedes 190 Evo2 DTM92 9 +14.220
---
7 +2L
---
16 0 1:49.788
---
Bridgestone  
goldtop
 Kerb Crawlers
Ford Mustang DTM DTM92 5 +0.964
---
8 +6L 12 0 1:40.729
---
unknown
Goodyear  
picnic
 Team Shark
BMW M3 Sport Evolution DTM92 7 +2.998
---
9 +14L 4 0 1:43.640
---
unknown
Yokohama  
SimRacing.org.uk Lap Records
Race Room Experience
DTM92
1:39.987
---
Gavino Pintus
Qualifying
Ford Mustang DTMMarch 26, 2020, 08:53:42 PM +0000
E7DTM92
Race Room Experience
DTM92
1:39.816
---
Gavino Pintus
Race
Ford Mustang DTMMarch 26, 2020, 08:53:42 PM +0000
E7DTM92
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Author Topic: RRE Season 7 (2020) Race Room DTM & TC'92 Cup - Zhuhai - Mar 26  (Read 1032 times)
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phspok
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« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2020, 11:07:07 AM +0000 »

Hmm didn't realise you could adjust the diff with these.... I just click the front roll bar up one, and the rear ARB down one
and they mostly become drivable. Perhaps set the front and rear dampers comp to 3 front, and rebound to 7 or so
dilute to taste. I was finding the little beemer, which I think is what Pete was driving to spin if I went into a corner
too fast, so nasty lift off oversteer, I would have set the coast diff higher and the power diff lower if I had realised you could
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frex
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« Reply #16 on: March 28, 2020, 11:34:49 AM +0000 »

I would have set the coast diff higher and the power diff lower if I had realised you could

You can't, you can only adjust diff pre-load, I guess that's what Pete is referring too.

I've just had a go in it, and I agree it's a tricky little bugger.. I think some of that entry oversteer is down to the brake balance being set a little too far rearward. A couple of clicks forward helped to bring a little stability, at least for me. The power delivery is also a little peaky, and can lead to bit of unpredictability when it comes on cam. Changing the gear ratios to bring them a little closer together made it a lot more drivable (again, at least for me - setups can be very personal things..!). Once I had made those changes I actually found that reducing the diff pre-load (and so inducing a bit more lift-off oversteer) was then beneficial. A few other minor tweeks and for me it was faster and more stable. Couldn't match my Mustang times, but it would be competitive on tracks with more corners and less straights.
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frex
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« Reply #17 on: March 28, 2020, 12:08:34 PM +0000 »

Full setup in case you want to give it a go Pete, maybe it helps:







(Rear end tab not shown as that was just stock except for same 0.3 PSI tyre pressure difference as on the front).
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picnic
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« Reply #18 on: March 28, 2020, 03:35:24 PM +0000 »

Thank you, as you've gone to that much trouble it would be rude not to at least try again  Smiley

I didn't really struggle too much with entry over steer it under braking was more under power coming out of the corner. I would sometime lose it late in the corner with the back end coming around long after I was off the brakes. But generally I was ok, it was corner exit when I was near a curb or grass as I could never predict what would happen, and never catch something when it did go wrong. I'm sure my still weak left leg is not helping here but I do like predictability in my car Roll Eyes
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phspok
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« Reply #19 on: March 28, 2020, 06:42:22 PM +0000 »

Set the rear ARB one click or more softer, st the front ARB one or more clicks harder and see how it feels
set the rear damper compression to be about 3 and leave the front, or also set the front rebound about 3/4
whatever the nmbers are. will cure losing the back end on corner exit, then try putting stuff back one
click at a time
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picnic
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« Reply #20 on: March 28, 2020, 07:12:02 PM +0000 »

Thanks Smiley
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phspok
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« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2020, 10:51:07 AM +0100 »

That was "three quarters" of whatever the number are. Like Geoffs guide set the rear compression low
front rebound high. If I can drive these things you can  Roll Eyes
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BillThomas
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« Reply #22 on: March 30, 2020, 01:33:38 PM +0100 »

I posted this a few weeks ago to help some of the GTL racers here, I guess it applies equally to RRE.
 
'I have a setup guide that I printed out from NoGrip many years ago that I use. I will reproduce the main part of it below, it may help some of you. I have another much more comprehensive one that I obtained from another website, but I find it a bit too confusing so rarely consult it. Before using this guide you really need to determine where the car is not responding as you would like.

Here it is:

Understeers into corner
Soften front bump
Stiffen rear rebound
Soften front springs
Harden rear springs

Oversteers into corner
Stiffen front bump
Soften rear rebound
Harden front springs
Soften rear springs

Understeers mid-corner
Soften front roll bar
Stiffen rear roll bar

Oversteers mid-corner
Stiffen front roll bar
Soften rear roll bar

Understeers on exit
Soften front rebound
Stiffen rear bump

Oversteers on exit
Stiffen front rebound
Soften rear bump

Caster – more generally helps turn in but you can go too far, keep increasing until it feels like it is not improving then go back a touch.

Tyre pressures – even temperature spread across the tyres when hot.

Camber – set so that tyre temps are a few degrees hotter on the inside.

Front toe – a little negative at the front helps turn in.

Rear toe – more positive helps to control oversteer, use 0 on low powered cars.

Brake bias – Keep moving to rear to help turn in until car gets unstable on the brakes, then go back a couple of percent towards the front.'

Obviously more modern cars have much more adjustment than the old cars in GTL, but I think it gives the basic ideas.

Thanks Geoff a useful aide memoir, using it have transformed the cars for tonight’s races into drivable race cars instead of oversteering brutes! Cool
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Bill Thomas   wheelchair
Another one bites the dust
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