UKGTL Season 21 The Top 12 Tracks - Goodwood - Jun 16

[Daz9]

Only tried the soft top version, so can't comment on differences, but 1.22s were where I was also......Can't claim to be huge on the Cobras, but this was more entertaining than I remember any other being in GTL, but was absolutely capable of still killing me if I let it.....

[Geoffers]

Down to 1.23.0 now with the heavy car, which is what i will be taking.

Did try Hristo's setup, but although it seemed more stable than mine I could not get it to turn as well as I wanted & was around 0.5s slower with it.

[Dimitar Dulichki]

Hi,
Someone would be kind enough to send me one of your setup ...
 Curiously, I can not access the files online in the game ... (another weird thing .. GTL)

I will send you a PM in a moment.

[Christian Dauger]

Thanks, Dimitar

[phspok]

Sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity 
Here is a real world run round Goodwood in my Honda

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF7S_Ha6ITM

[Hristo Itchov]

Sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity 
Here is a real world run round Goodwood in my Honda

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF7S_Ha6ITM

Great stuff, Matt!

[Christian Dauger]

 

Sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity 
Here is a real world run round Goodwood in my Honda

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF7S_Ha6ITM

 

[Wiltshire Tony]

Results and replay now posted.

[Hristo Itchov]

Robby, a piece of advice: when you want to let through someone lapping you, don't lift up or brake right in the middle of a corner while the other car is behind you...

[EvilClive]

 Grats to the podium guys and I wish that I could have enjoyed these brutes around Goodwood. But as may have been obvious, I was having some problems  . 

Until I have resolved the issues that I am having with my G25 steering wheel in GTL, I will probably not take part in any races. I might dip in for spractice/qualifying to test things "online".

 Last night it was almost impossible to keep the car on the tarmac on the straights at Goodwood, where most fast sections involve curves.  The delay between steering input with the G25 and the game actually responding was a lottery and basically I had no feel for where the car was and where it was going to go. Trying to anticipate each small steering correction by 0.5secs, and degree of input, without immediate feedback proved an absolute nightmare so I quit the race after only 2 laps before the fast guys started lapping.

Over the next few days I intend to strip down the wheel and check out the internals, but I am half suspecting that the answer does not lie there. The problems that I have are most pronounced in GTL and barely noticeable in GPL, so I am suspecting something in the software??

[Hristo Itchov]

Grats to the podium guys and I wish that I could have enjoyed these brutes around Goodwood. But as may have been obvious, I was having some problems  . 

Until I have resolved the issues that I am having with my G25 steering wheel in GTL, I will probably not take part in any races. I might dip in for spractice/qualifying to test things "online".

 Last night it was almost impossible to keep the car on the tarmac on the straights at Goodwood, where most fast sections involve curves.  The delay between steering input with the G25 and the game actually responding was a lottery and basically I had no feel for where the car was and where it was going to go. Trying to anticipate each small steering correction by 0.5secs, and degree of input, without immediate feedback proved an absolute nightmare so I quit the race after only 2 laps before the fast guys started lapping.

Over the next few days I intend to strip down the wheel and check out the internals, but I am half suspecting that the answer does not lie there. The problems that I have are most pronounced in GTL and barely noticeable in GPL, so I am suspecting something in the software??

I googled a bit about it and found a possible solution:

"Removing the mouse and connecting the wheel to a separate set of USB ports fixed it."

Have you tried something like that?

[EvilClive]

Thanks H,
I was aware that the G25 was designed when USB2 ( black sockets) was the standard connection and there have been many reports of people with more modern PCs having issues when they plug into the newer USB3 ( blue ) sockets. I had never noticed any issues with that until now, but your comments might be relevant.
There are 2 x USB2 and 4 x USB3 sockets on the rear of the PC plus 2 x USB3 on the front top of the case.
I recently added a new bank of USB3 sockets as I was at capacity with mouse/ keyboard/ printers/ scanners/ wheel/ pedals/gearshift etc. This was an external bank of 5 USB sockets with its own power supply which occupied one of the original PC sockets, but effectively gave me 4 extra options. All of the new sockets are USB3.
BUT!! When I installed these extra sockets I had to drag my PC out from under my desk ( it's dark and scary under there!!) which necessitated the unplugging of ALL the wiring behind. I have a couple of small bulkhead lights on the underside of the desk so that I can crawl in and see what I am doing with all of the leads and plugs.
There is no way that I can guarantee that all of those USB leads ( including the G25 ) went back in the same order, so this p.m. I will try switching a few leads around before I dismantle the wheel.

Something that I have noticed with GTL and my Bodnar cables is the configuring of the controls within the menu options.  When all cables passed through the G25 base unit in the standard Logitech install the Joystick options only listed Logitech G25 Wheel. Now, it sees the G25 as one joystick, the Bodnar gearshift as another joystick and the pedals as a 3rd joystick. I have to be very careful which joystick option I select if I am assigning axis etc.  Just a warning to others to look out for that if they go the Bodnar route.

[EvilClive]

R.I.P. G25 

stripped down the wheel this afternoon and discovered what I feared. The small plastic encoder disk on the shaft of one of the motors was cracked.
This means that it is no longer a press fit onto the shaft and is slipping when it should be sending pulses to GTL. Plus at the point where it is cracked, there is a wider space between the slits of the disk which would give a non-linear signal at that point.  End result = dodgy steering. 

Wheel is currently in a di-assembled state and I see no point in rebuilding it unless a cheap repair can be found.

So, options are :-
to find a supplier of the encoder disks and replace the broken one. Downside is that I know Logitech do not supply these any more and anyway the wheel is probably nearing the end of its life cycle after many years of hard treatment.

or
Buy a new wheel 
I had been contemplating buying a Thrustmaster T300 sometime this year as an upgrade, but I have read some disturbing reviews on line about overheating/burning out. Anyone have any inside knowledge on that?
or I could try and gazump Geoffers' order for his Fanatec and re-direct it to chez nous?

Off to the Interweb to research options.........................

I knew there was a reason I was not winning races!!!

[Erling G-P]

or
Buy a new wheel 
I had been contemplating buying a Thrustmaster T300 sometime this year as an upgrade, but I have read some disturbing reviews on line about overheating/burning out. Anyone have any inside knowledge on that?
or I could try and gazump Geoffers' order for his Fanatec and re-direct it to chez nous?

Off to the Interweb to research options.........................

I knew there was a reason I was not winning races!!!

I have a Thrustmaster TX 'Ferrari 458 Italia Edition'.  Mine has a built-in fan that kicks in occationally, so no overheating so far.  The clamping system is driving me bonkers though.  Can't say how it compares to the T300, but looking at a review, the base seems to be the same.

[SpecialKS]

R.I.P. G25  

stripped down the wheel this afternoon and discovered what I feared. The small plastic encoder disk on the shaft of one of the motors was cracked.
This means that it is no longer a press fit onto the shaft and is slipping when it should be sending pulses to GTL. Plus at the point where it is cracked, there is a wider space between the slits of the disk which would give a non-linear signal at that point.  End result = dodgy steering.  

Wheel is currently in a di-assembled state and I see no point in rebuilding it unless a cheap repair can be found.

So, options are :-
to find a supplier of the encoder disks and replace the broken one. Downside is that I know Logitech do not supply these any more and anyway the wheel is probably nearing the end of its life cycle after many years of hard treatment.

or
Buy a new wheel  
I had been contemplating buying a Thrustmaster T300 sometime this year as an upgrade, but I have read some disturbing reviews on line about overheating/burning out. Anyone have any inside knowledge on that?
or I could try and gazump Geoffers' order for his Fanatec and re-direct it to chez nous?

Off to the Interweb to research options.........................

I knew there was a reason I was not winning races!!!

Had the plastic encoder wheel broken two or three years ago - a very frequent issue with the G25.

Bought a new metal one at ebay.de from a German seller for a much higher price (more than € 40) than found here - from China & UK sellers:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=logitech+g25+steering+wheel+optical+encoder+metall&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1
but it still works.

Instructions available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhYpWAmZVjQ


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Result