I am fully aware that most people will find these circuits "new". But I have chosen what might be termed "simple" circuits ( i.e. there ain't too many corners! Georgia has 2!!
) so that they should not involve hours of learning.
The intention was to offer a series of races where drivers could practice their learning skills, without fear of losing major points in any championship because they did not have the time to memorise 27 corners etc.
If I find the time before each race I might try and suggest a setup from a more familiar circuit that drivers could copy across from their existing setups folders. With the 65's I find that generally, if you have a setup that is comfortable on a similar circuit it will work almost straight out of the box on a new one, perhaps with tweaking of top gear ratio.
If I get really clever, I might even try and write up some driving notes about braking points /gears/lines etc but it will be from my perspective and setups...but it might help
Pantsring has 1 corner.
Very true about setups. Here are my usual tips on how to find a suitable setup from another circuit. Start by pointing out the following (predominant, so whichever is of higher occurrence) factors of the new track:
1) Fast or slow corners
2) Flat or banked corners
3) Even level or altitude changes, especially at corners
4) Smoother surface or bumpier surface
Once you identify all that, just look for a track with the same traits. Corners matter the most, so work it off that and then just adjust the gear ratios, starting from the final gear and the top gears (5th-6th), then work down towards the lower gears for different corners.
If it happens that you don't have a setup which you can copy and you have to modify a setup from a different track, here are a few tips in relation to the above factors (apart from adjusting gears):
1) Generally stiffer suspension for predominantly fast corners, softer for slower corners (spring settings rather than ARB in both cases)
2) Stiffer rear/softer front for flat corner tracks (because of lower G forces in corners), softer rear/stiffer front for banked corner tracks
3) Stiffer rebound (and perhaps bump) settings for evenly leveled tracks, softer rebound (especially at the rear) for elevated tracks.
4) Softer bump settings for smother surfaces, stiffer for bumpy (to absorb the compression quicker and avoid pogo effect).
Of course, use ride height adjustments if you bottom out in some place and I suggest to begin with raising the front end first and not the rear. It's usually the front that unsettles the car before the rear follows and scrapes the ground, which eventually gives a false feedback.
That's all!
