iRacing Season 4 Radical - Zandvoort (Chicane) - Nov 23

[Fred Basset]

The guys at the top are stunningly fast. I was 3 seconds down on them until I found the cheat code. Turning FF off I gained 2 seconds a lap so now I'm only 1 second behind. It becomes a lot easier not reacting to the steering being jolted over all the bumps and instead just reacting to the movement of the car.

CHEATER!!! MACROER!!! EXPLOITER!!! USER OF EXCESSIVE PUNCTUATION!!!!!!!

Oh no, that last one was me.  Sorry.

Simon for gods sake don't post that on the iRacing forum's, we'll have one post of 453 pages calling for iRacing to do something about this dreadful abuse of the system and another with Mario P telling you how your ForceFeedback settings are wrong

 

Gary

[Fred Basset]

The guys at the top are stunningly fast. I was 3 seconds down on them until I found the cheat code. Turning FF off I gained 2 seconds a lap so now I'm only 1 second behind. It becomes a lot easier not reacting to the steering being jolted over all the bumps and instead just reacting to the movement of the car.

I actually turned my ffb up a couple of races ago...

Gary

[Simon Gymer]

Simon for gods sake don't post that on the iRacing forum's, we'll have one post of 453 pages calling for iRacing to do something about this dreadful abuse of the system and another with Mario P telling you how your ForceFeedback settings are wrong

LOL. Tempting. I'd better not mention that I'm half fish half human either.

I've tried so many FF settings and I can't say I'm ever happy with them. 12 in game gives you the best feedback but you need arms of steel and once you start going below 8 you lose steering feedback and just get bump feedback. The Radical seems particularly "bad" for getting a nice mix compared to the other cars. I had been running it on 3 or 4 before I turned it off last night. I will try 12 again in game, but 60% in the control panel (rather than 107% or 100%) to see if that gives me the feedback but without the need to be superman.

It certainly feels wierd as heck with no feedback and the steering is as light as squirty cream. I don't like the way it feels, but it does mean I can point the car straight.

Good track for the car, but again why did they put that silly chicane in the middle of a perfectly good section of track? The track would be better without either of the 2 little chicanes.

[Paul Thurston]

I've tried so many FF settings and I can't say I'm ever happy with them. 12 in game gives you the best feedback but you need arms of steel and once you start going below 8 you lose steering feedback and just get bump feedback. The Radical seems particularly "bad" for getting a nice mix compared to the other cars. I had been running it on 3 or 4 before I turned it off last night. I will try 12 again in game, but 60% in the control panel (rather than 107% or 100%) to see if that gives me the feedback but without the need to be superman.

Have you read this: http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/33606.page?

It's the best description of what's happening I've read.

If you're looking for steering feel like a real car then you'll need to spend serious money on a Frex or similar.

Paul

[Fred Basset]

I use 5 in sim and 50% on my wheel, its a bit more powerful than a G25/G27 though. But keep the sliding in sim around 5

Regards
Gary

[Mike Wrightson]

I'm using G25.  102% in profiler and 8 or 9 in-sim for the Radical.  Some cars I've turned it up to 12 or more though, like the Mustang or I can't feel anything.  G25's are pretty weak compared to real life.  When you set them up as Ade suggests so that the forces aren't clipped, you realise how weak the motors actually are.

All they use are a pair of Mabuchi RS540 motors (maybe even a bit smaller) which you will find bolted into those (slow) Tamiya R/C car kits.  When I did R/C racing, we used motors with an awfull lot more power and torque than those.

[Paul Thurston]

I'm using G25.  102% in profiler and 8 or 9 in-sim for the Radical.  Some cars I've turned it up to 12 or more though, like the Mustang or I can't feel anything.  G25's are pretty weak compared to real life.  When you set them up as Ade suggests so that the forces aren't clipped, you realise how weak the motors actually are.

All they use are a pair of Mabuchi RS540 motors (maybe even a bit smaller) which you will find bolted into those (slow) Tamiya R/C car kits.  When I did R/C racing, we used motors with an awfull lot more power and torque than those.

Are there more powerful motors which are a direct swap then or do they have different current requirements?

Whether the G25 mechanism would take much extra power is the question of course but it might be an interesting experiment.

Paul

[Mike Wrightson]

If they are indeed 540 size, then yes there are stronger motors that are a direct replacement, they will pull much more power (20 amps or more at full speed in an R/C   )and if the internal gearing is plastic, you'll strip the gears when you hit the first bump.  The G27's helical gears would be better for that, but even they might suffer.

In all honesty, you would need at least 4 times the torque to even get close to real-life forces.  Certainly possible to do, but probably 4 times more expensive to produce too.

RS540's are about £10.  R/C racing motors start from £50.  That's at least £80 more just for the motors

EDIT: BRD's unreleased FFB wheel seemed to be usingsomething about the size of a car starter motor.  They said that it could produce fully realistic forces and could break bones if you didn't let go before you crashed.

[Paul Thurston]

A lot of the problem is that once you start using metal in the mechanism you increase the transmission losses so need a more powerful motor.  It's a vicious circle.

I wonder how much power the G25 PCB can supply in standard form?

[Simon Gymer]

I'm not really interested in getting real world forces.

All I really want is good feedback from the game to simulate what I can't feel from the lack of g-forces sitting in my chair. Even if that means I get things through the wheel I wouldn't get in reality. I want to get feedback as to those forces as it's all those forces put together + real world steering feedback that come together to help you feel the things you need to feel to get a proper sense of what the car is doing.

Whether that's really possible or not I don't know, but I've always been of the belief that I get a better sense of what the car is doing in GTR2 than I do in iRacing because the feedback I'm given through the wheel is more comprehensive even if it's not true to life.

[Mike Wrightson]

What I find I have to do is leave the profiler setting at 102% and set the game slider so I can feel the steering.  Bumps will get clipped, but I have to accept that because the motors aren't powerfull enough.

The PCB isn't so much the problem with the right FET's but the input power will need to be 10 times more than the ickle PSU provides now.  It's rated at 1.75 amps.  Using new motors of the same size may require a 25 amp PSU.  We are starting to talk serious money for something that will still not get to real-life levels.

Of course there's another problem.  Strapping an FFB wheel that could output at real-life levels to a normal desk, will break the desk. 

[Darren Seal]

BRD's unreleased FFB wheel seemed to be usingsomething about the size of a car starter motor.  They said that it could produce fully realistic forces and could break bones if you didn't let go before you crashed.

I'm all for realism, but breaking bones.... 

I think I'll stick to my G25 

[Paul Thurston]

The PCB isn't so much the problem with the right FET's but the input power will need to be 10 times more than the ickle PSU provides now.  It's rated at 1.75 amps.  Using new motors of the same size may require a 25 amp PSU.  We are starting to talk serious money for something that will still not get to real-life levels.

Have you seen the price of a Frex? 

[Mike Wrightson]

Frex will get to realistic levels, and yep, £1333.00 that's about the price BRD would have been asking for their wheel.  Far too much engineering needed for a mass-market wheel, which is all the G25/27 is.  That said, they are also the best mass-market wheels

[popabawa]

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